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COSMETOLOGY: FASCINO EFEBICO.

In collaboration with BMM Issue 32 June 2010

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The new millennium man has the charm of Ganymede. The cosmetics industry dedicates to the “Royal Child” aesthetic strategies for the care and preservation of the image, through ostentatious youth with the intention of preserving all its aesthetic and moral integrity in a constant struggle between soul and body. This target does not deal with homogenised images which erase ethnic or registries differences, the only concern is to reduce the image to an enlightened entity, more spiritual, in a transparent and legendary narrative object. An exposed, overexposed, perfect and groomed body. Also in Cosmetology, products transmit the symptoms related to the preservation of the image of a young and spiritual silhouette. Through medical expertise, the cosmeceuticals, are the “way of life” of the European market. Dermo-line, professional and hi-tech, known for their scientific and medical approach: slim up the figure, smooth, fill, eliminate brown spots, give brightness to complexion and so on… all thanks to new formulas with vegetable protein extracts. Fast to use, high performance.

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Max LS Age-Less Face Cream. The new anti-aging Lab Series draws inspiration from the technology of sirtuins, “longevity genes” epidermal cells developed with high-tech methods. Its complex works as an excellent preventive anti-aging  and brings exceptional benefits to the natural healing process with an immediate improvement of male skin.

Skin Therapy. Anti-Aging Oxygen Moisturizing gel-cream  is an ingenious oxygenating treatment, created by Lancaster, necessary to counteract first signs of aging.  Its formula is composed of a patented delivery 02 system together with a cocktail of anti-oxidants that give the skin more firmness and elasticity. Suitable for all skin types.

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Even Better Clinical. The most important factor that makes the skin look youthful is in having a uniform color. The new botanical complex by Clinique reduces dark patches/spots on the skin and gives a prefectly even tone and an immaculate face. Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector, evens the complexion and ”delete” as a rubber those marks left by hyperpigmentation. A powerful antioxidant extract, Dianella Ensifolia, contained in the formula, reduces dark spots, promote exfoliation to accelerate cell turnover. For a radiant and spiritual face.

Corrective Eye Contour Gel. Prevents dark circles, reduces signs of fatigue. It is not a normal eye cream gel. Corrective Eye Contour Gel by Diego Dalla Palma, hydrates, improves microcirculation, counteracts the local accumulation of fats, preventing the return of eye bags. Born from pharmaceutical research on viper venom, has the ability to reduce wrinkles.

Anti-Aging Anti-Wrinkle Eye Line Filler. The very last product from La Prairie carries a great promise:an effect comparable to injectable fillers. It’s called Anti-Aging Anti-Wrinkle Eye Line Filler, an eye contour cream with a lifting and filling action, immediate and long term. Its effective formula contains a plant extract derived from Guggul, an Indian tree, increases the volume of tissues increasing the level of hydration in the most dehydrated areas of the skin.

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Génific HD. The first daily men’s rejuvenating treatment protects from shaving damages and contains the patented “Genefique” complex. Born from protenemic researches is a system of cellular repair through the release of proteins. Its light and fresh texture reduces redness and stimulates the production of proteins responsible for the quality of skin barrier.

ABDOS plus+ For Men. This impact cosmetic treatment from Sephora for the “sport lazy”, redefines the abdominal area with no efforts. Tightens the abdominal muscles, burns excess fat through a formula rich in natural active ingredients which have a vasoconstrictor effect which lifts the skin. Reshape your body without the use of cosmetic surgery!

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Soin Fermeté Age Control. Reassuring and easy to use is the new treatment Dior Homme Dermo System. Soin FermetéAge control. Suitable for very young skin helps to monitor the  shiny areas of the face, reducing excess sebum. Four weeks after this treatment, skin looks matt and uniform.

Alessio Nesi

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OFFICINA PROFUMO FARMACEUTICA SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

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The old pharmacies were fascinating institutions, once the site of experimental but not theoretical theories involving many aspects of human knowledge from botany to alchemy and focus for all artistic activities often little known among the general public. My interest in this research wish, albeit in rapid synthesis, talk about the history of Officina Profumo Pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella in Florence, a remarkable and complex monumental, diamond point of the 136 pharmacies surveyed in the history of Tuscany, because is the only convent pharmacy in Florence which keeps its original image and trade mark of excellence of the artisanal parfumery haute de gamme with 23 stores scattered worldwide. The pharmacy is accessed from via della Scala 16, near Square S. Maria Novella, as soon as we cross the threshold we are hit by an intense perfume and by a warm silence which accompanies us till the neo-gothic hall Sale which surprises for its sacred solemnity.

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Hall Sale

Dates back to 1848, has extraordinary frescoes framed in stucco which embellish the Nouveau furniture, bottles from the nineteenth century, ceramics, wooden sculptures, stills of the past. Adjacent to the Hall Green, or room overlooking the garden, was once the room reception for important guests: Inspectors of the art of Physicians, Apothecaries. Directoire style retains the original furnishing: sofas and white lacquered chairs upholstered in green floss. In 2012 the laboratory will celebrate four centuries of soap parfumes and teas production  but the testimonies of the existence of the laboratory comes from the time of Dante: it was founded in 1221, during the arrival of the Dominicans Friars in the city. It was officially opened to the public in 1612 at the suggestion of the Grand Duke of Tuscany.

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Hall Green

Among the galenic formulas patented by chemist-friars: Water Queen, which Catherine de Medici took to the throne of France and which was produced by 1725 in Cologne by the name of Acqua di Colonia; the Water Antisterica which has sedative properties, the famous liquor, among which i remember the  Alkermes, appointed by the Region Tuscany traditional product, which has a pungent and spicy taste and which is still produced according to the ancient recipe of Fra Cosimo Buccelli in 1743; the magic of Potpourri, the result of maturation of flowers and herbs from the Florentine hills, the Fragrances which evoke smells of imaginative journeys like Iris, Rose, Gardenia, Verbena, Vetiver, Hay, have won credibility among prominent figures of the showbiz and the international star system, among them: Hillary Clinton, Catherine Deneuve, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Monica Bellucci, Monica Vitti, Albertazzi, Benigni, Elizabeth. The current director Eugenio Alphandery, CEO since 1992 and co-owner, along with the last descendants of the lay property of the convent, Diana and Fiammetta Stefani, promotes through cultural events the origin of the laboratory in the world, enlighting its wealth.

Alessio Nesi

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EAU DE COLOGNE HAY

The true goal of every essence is to evoke emotions and images; and to the desire of and thanks to the desire to free the movement of the senses through escape routes of the imagination, we owe the particular Eau de Cologne Hay created in Officina Profumo Farmaceutica of Santa Maria Novella in Florence. The unique smell reminds the acute smell of fresh cut hay. The fragrance, with its simple structure creates images in a very fertile way.

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With wider and deeper emotional reverberation, projects the spirit through the base notes of Musk and Vanilla, of Benzoin and Vetiver, in a rustic setting as smooth as a lake, endless and idyllic. Arousing feelings of emptiness and absence, opens the contrast between human finitude and the infinity of nature. The emotions aroused by the attractiveness of this liquid have a narcotic-soothing effect, able to bring calm to our darkest thoughts. Smells are there to help us monitor our emotional life until we become slaves.

Alessio Nesi

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“Pretty much everything”

A big retrospective at the Foam Photography Museum of Amsterdam, showcases the ipnotic work of Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin. The exibition entitled “Pretty much everything” presents an idea of alienating Beauty, capable of undermining codes, renewing them through 300 pieces from 1985 to 2010: art, fashion, advertising campaigns for fashion houses of the likes of  YSL, ChanelBalmain, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Cloé plus of course images from regular international contributions for magazines such as W, Vogue, the NYT, 032c, and many more …

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Anastasia, 1994 © Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin.

The exibition doesn’t have a particular specific cronology. Images have been divided and associated between one another, following personal decisions: formal, politic, social, in order to show a narrative language typical of the duo from the netherland which has taken shape in a parallel dimension to the original idea of reality  in 25 years of work together.

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Delfine -  Ad Campaign for Balenciaga in collaboration with M/M Paris 2001 © Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin.

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Björk – Poisson Nageur, 2000 © Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin.

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Joanna – Hervé Leger Campaign, 1995 © Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin.

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Antony – Fantastic Man, 2006 © Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin.

Alessio Nesi

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PIG ISLAND

Every generation elects new masters and decrees their rediscovery. Authors and works travel a time, free from patterns capable of reset and rewrite the rules, like the famous performer California, Paul McCarthy, who for the first time arrives in Italy with a personal anthology of his works from 1975 to 2010, displayed in the reopened rooms of Palazzo Citterio, in the heart of Brera, produced by the Nicola Trussardi Foundation, in collaboration with the Superintendence for the architectural and landscape trust, in Milan until July 4.

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Daddies Tomato Ketchup Inflatable, 2001. Photo by: MARCO DE SCALZI

Along with his work also an unprecedented development that has had seven years of preparation called Pig Island. McCarthy destroys, decomposes, assembles, with playful and dirty spirit, the appearance of models and myths from modern culture.

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Pirate Party, 2005. 4 channels video installation, 92’00”. Photo by: MARCO DE SCALZI.

Since the the mid-sixties McCarthy has kept a very subversive energy and the ability to surprise. His varied work, made of videos, performances, collages, drawings and photographs, documents disturbing creatures from a fantasy Disneyland: a fun and optimistic allusion of the existence.

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F-Fort Party, 2005. 2 channels video installation, 30’00”. Photo by: MARCO DE SCALZI.

Alessio Nesi

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NOTONLY SPF

Even in difficult times, main cause the economic crisis, luxury purely seen as quality pays off. Taking care of the skin is still among the most popular goods, especially when it comes to interesting anti-aging sunscreens. Versatile and convenient, the latest generation’s sunscreens have an anti-aging protective format enriched with multibenefit formulas: not only they are able to protect against sunburn and photoaging but also to correct skin imperfections and to stimulate collagen production. They are real cosmetic treatments with light textures and scents. Lancaster – brand launched in 1971, pioneer of suncare – is now out in most shops with a new generation of solar high-tech, SUN AGE CONTROL, which combines the experience of anti-aging treatments to repair damage in cellular DNA caused by UV rays with an exclusive anti-oxidant complex.

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SWISS SUNCARE of La Prairie is a treatment composed of four complementary products – Anti-Wrinkle Sun Cream, Protective Body Emulsion, Luxe Lip Treatment and Self Tan for the Face and Body – a cocktail of precious complexes with moisturizing and restorative properties.

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For lovers of prolonged sun exposure, Eight Hour Cream for Face Sun Defense by Elizabeth Arden, an oil-free lotion with a powerful protection factor SPF 50: shields the skin from UVA and UVB, main cause to cell damages, signs of premature aging and sunburn. Is recommended by the Skin Cancer Foundation Seal of Recommendation under the International Program.

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The model of savage tan without SPF was abolished a long time ago. The new desire is to match a skin perfectly hydrated, golden, with no wrinkles nor dark spots. Even in times of crisis, you can!

Alessio Nesi

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THROUGH THE LOOKING-GLASS: MALE NARCISSISM.

Photography ALBERTO PELLEGRINET

Realization ALESSIO NESI

Cleared by the fear of effeminacy, men today do not hesitate to buy and use, even without moderation, cosmetics made especially for them; fast and easy to use, they nurture and bring to light trends and new patologies that were once submerged.

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Anti-Fatigue Treatment L’HOMME YSL

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Glorious Skin Visible Lifting Tensor Musk COMFORT ZONE

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Rénergie 3D Yeux LANCÔME MEN

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Eau de Parfum GUCCI by GUCCI

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CULTI DAY SPA

“The extraordinary of every day is replicated in us, the extraordinary of every moment makes us feel alive the extraordinary of every place like this favours balance, personal luxury is the time In the hands of those who know us”. Alexander Agrati, the creator of Culti, summarizes this way the innovative project of Personal-SPA.

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A landmark in the center of Milan, with more than 1200 square meter space to regenerate body and mind. A path divided into two levels and distinct areas, male and female, in exclusive Suites, which goes through sensory pathways, baths in the great Mareminerale DAY-SPA, herbal teas, massages for bio-stimulation, drainage, mud and clay, salt diving, steam baths, hair care, make-up, anti-aging cosmetic treatments performed by a team of therapists.

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Alessandro Agrati has also created a Male SPA, a barber who meets a specific methodological protocol of high-level and old style, designed for men who love to pamper themselves, according to the requests and the time available for guests. An innovative and unique project designed to take care of ourselves; after all, as Oscar Wilde used to say, love ourself is the beginning of a romance that lasts a lifetime.

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CHÉRIE’S TREE HOUSE

A celebration of Creativity and Love

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A tree house is a place of our childhood, real or imaginary, the only one which was only ours, in which we kept our beloved things, where we went for dreaming or where we invited our friends to share secrets. By growing up we forgot or left this place. But today, two girls from two different cultures reopen the tree house, recognizing that for making our dreams reality, we still need a location to make our fantasies growing, especially when working on the realization of dreams. And so, twice a year in the middle of Milan, Chiara Grassi and Sylvie May build a tree house, as a platform for emerging artists from fashion and design. Providing a place for their creations, in an atmosphere with a cosy, familiar spirit. Where everybody is welcome to discover new and unique objects.

The Chéries Chiara Grassi & Sylvie May

Chiara Grassi & Sylvie May

The event offers every time a new selection of 40 designers, found in the amazing variety of emerging designers in Italy. This time, amongst many others, there will be clothing by Il Sistema degli Oggetti, shirts of Pine City, t-shirts by Toxic Toy, handmade bikinis by Chérie’s Flakes, painted shoes from Not A Wonderboy, custom-made bicycles from Dodici Cicli and tree house illustrations by Pietro Nicolaucich.

Laura Ferrari

Laura Ferrari

In atmosphere in which you can feel a Made with Love spirit, a place where you enjoy organic food, happy music by Djs like Giandisco, feel free to stroll around amongst the leaves, slurping your Sangria while discovering new and unique objects. The fifth edition of the Chérie’s Tree House is this weekend, the 8th and 9th of May, in the 247 Showroom, via Pestalozzi 4.

Bio Food

There will be also an opening celebration on Friday the 7th, at the legendary Pink is Punk, at Magazzini Generali, via Pietrasanta  16.

Pink Is Punk

Enjoy!

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PARFUMES

In collaboration with >bmm Issue N° 31

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ESSENCE

Musical and bright. The essence of the new Narciso Rodriguez’s fragrance is the mirror of a paradoxical femininity, intense and light, simple and complex. The chypre fragrance created by perfumer Alberto Morillas is contained in a bottle-sculpture, designed by avant-garde exponent Ross Lovegrove. Essence reedefines feminine traits and signs future.

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Since 1989, the year of his birth, Versus represents Versace’s rock soul which this season returns to have a new attractive olfactory identity. The mischievous bouquet begins with energetic notes and fruity accents, the floral heart reveals the opulence of the Rose Centifolia. When the base notes rise, the fragrance takes the mystery: the depth of Musk, Patchouli and Ambrette Grains melt in a warm embrace with main notes of its beginning.

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If it was music it would be: Così Fan Tutte, alias The School for Lovers (K 588) by Mozart. A bold and flirtatious symphony. The blunt, oval cristal-glass of the purple bottle with its play of light emphasizes the olfactory emotion which contains. The geometric pattern embossed on the front of the packaging does not evoke only the theme of the labyrinth but also a series of musical notes transcribed. A Mozart Mosaic.

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