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WALLPAPERS

Prada celebrates 10 years since the opening of its first Epicenter, on Broadway in New York. Designed by Studio OMA owned by Rem Koolhaas, it has made quite big news for its innovations: the step structure, the transparent, darkened dressing room and the great north wall, 60 meters long. Conceived as a decorative element to change each season, with wallpapers created ad hoc by the New York firm 2×4. Ten years of visions, taken from films, theatrical sets, posters, music cover. Daily and lysergic images: the first, Vomit from 2001, is now part of MOMA’s collection, while 2007 Skull, bears the signature of the artist Damien Hirst. Wallpapers for museums, seen as an element of temporality. Emblems of Capitalism, Grandeur and Contemporary Classicism.

Vomit

VOMIT 2001 – Detail – Large floral pattern consisting of fragments of images from trivial to semi-pornographic.

Skull

SKULL 2007 – Detail – Wallpaper designed by Damien Kirst- skulls from the album cover of the band The Hours, designed by the artist. Visible only from August to September.

Florid

FLORID 2007 – Detail – A landscape dotted with dragons and cruel water lilies inspired by the surreal world of Bosch and Beardsley.

NO RELIEF2

NO RELIEF 2009 – Detail - Its pattern takes inspiration from low relief classics. The third dimension is achieved by applying raw stucco to walls.

SS2010_Wallpaper_1percentest

ENFILADE 2010 – Detail – The pattern creates a series of adjoining rooms, ambiguous spaces that suggest a sense of “temporal-space” disorientation, typical of the evocative vision of director Alain Resneis.

CARIATYDES

CARYATIDES 2011 – Detail – The Three Caballeros, Carmen Miranda’s theatrical sets and Art Deco posters from Josephine Baker’s movies, are main sources of inspiration of women’s collection SS 2011. Wallpaper is therefore full of spiral, caryatids images on a background of Baroque landscapes.

Alessio Nesi

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SKETCHBOOK WITH NOTES

Illustration and text by ALESSIO NESI

Image-freak entrusted to sense. Suspended in a solicitation. Aimed at capturing a content, to define a subject to narrate a collection of fragrances’ breath, powerful in its kind. Boadicea the Victorius is the name that pays homage to the British warrior Queen and also the olfactory creation of Michael Boadi, international hair stylist who for twenty long years, has collaborated with major fashion houses (including Gucci, Missoni, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Chanel) and has styled jet-setters hair such as the those of Kate Moss, Giselle, Jennifer Lopez and Madonna to name a few. The high quality of natural essences that make up the olfactory harmonies of his collection, launched in 2009 in Harrods, the prestigious London store, are contained in a unique pewter decanter inlaid with Celtic décor, which have earned him the New Design Award from Wallpaper Magazine.

Boadicea the Victorius-Illustration

Eau de Parfum Regal BOADICEA THE VICTORIUS Luxury Perfume Collection

Proprietexclusive devotes a special illustration to Regal, the latest fragrance of the English maison. The fruity top notes combined with flower and animal ones, leave room for a soft heart of Indian rose and  in the heart notes a bit of Moroccan Jasmine. While the amber base notes, persistent and dark, Patchouli from Paraguay, transport us to an enchanted garden infested of oracles and threatening flowery presence. A dark-fantasy mood for a new, unique and ancestral fragrance.

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CLASS IS THE OWNER OF BEAUTY

Class is the owner of beauty, fortified by the use of beauty, come to the borders of supreme beauty, where beauty is only beauty,” writes Pier Paolo Pasolini. For the Italian poet, beauty is the banner of ruling class which through its power dictates stylistic style and period’s taste. Adoption of fashion was an exclusivity of courts and aristocratic hierarchies; only in the eighteenth century, the growing rise of Bourgeoisie, impose its own culture and fashion that matches its own ideals and lifestyle through the choice of structures, forms, color and proportion. Contemporary idea of beauty has now become certified, it has a hypothesis not very flattering: we desire and we honor certain things simply because they indicate social prestige.

So, clothes from any collection of Chistian Dior, would be described as beautiful because of their social role, such as architectures and works of art. Beauty according to Pasolini would be dealing only with the position within social hierarchy.

christian_dior_house_models_wearing_the_spring_summer_1957_collection_photgraph_by_cecil_beaton

CHRISTIAN DIOR House models wearing the Spring Summer 1957. Photograph CECIL BEATON.

For instance, if we look at the Bridal Chamber in the Palazzo Ducale di Mantova, decorated with frescoes by Mantegna, Gonzaga family’s official artist, we understand that is designed to communicate the power of the Gonzaga family. To scare off potential rivals and encourage loyalty of subordinates. The family’s power derives from its wealth, from their alliances and military resources. Artworks are veiled statements of power. However I think that beauty is not always used to overpower others: we can always give social prestige on the basis of much more pleasant qualities.

mantegnacameradeglispos

The Bridal Chamber in the Palazzo Ducale di Mantova, decorated with frescoes by MANTEGNA.

Alessio Nesi

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NUDE GROOMING

Still-life ALEBRTO PELLEGRINET Realization ALESSIO NESI

From most man’s Spring/Summer 2012 shows, a metropolitan makeup emerges, light and natural. Nude-look for troubled adolescents, dapper dandy, nice rockabilly, sporty gentleman. Easily reproducible at home. Key products: tinted moisturizing, brightening serum, revitalizing water, body lotion. Tinted moisturizer is a camouflage foundation “no texture“.

Fashion Shows

Spring / Summer 2012 from left: ROBERTO CAVALLI, NEIL BARRETT, VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, COSTUME NATIONAL.

It nourishes skin, giving a very light natural-matte color. It evens out skin tone and gently warms the complexion making it look sun-kissed. The brightening and transparent natural finish hides most imperfections. Body lotions with green actives, rekindle cell turnover that regulates brightness. Skin looks toned and radiant. The trick is there but we dont see it. Light, high quality formulas combined to manly fragrances in order to amplify results for a “rose water based” male grooming!

Beauty Uomo

Clockwise: Lip Conditioner SPF 15. Studio Moisture Tint SPF 15. Fix Fixante Mist. All M. A. C. Cosmetics. Eau de Toilette L’Homme Libre YVES SAINT LAURENT. Face and Body Foundation. Enlumieur highlighter. Select Cover-up. All M. A. C. COSMETICS. Body Lotion Green BYREDO PARFUMS.

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THE PORTRAIT OF LOUIS-AUGUSTE SCHWITER

Eugene Delacroix (1798-1863) was the greatest nineteenth-century french romantic painter. In his career he painted a few portraits but one of his finest is the one of his friend Louis-Auguste Schwiter, a fellow painter, famous in the history of art only as the subject of this work. Dressed up for a formal dinner reception is portrayed in a garden. Very often when we try to say why we find something beautiful, we talk about the relationship between its parts. In this case the garden, the setting which means nature, express a state of mind, a mood. Introversion, isolation. An intimate and secluded feeling. At first glance, man does not give the impression of ostentatious security, but he seems clumsy.

Louis-Auguste_Schwiter_1826-1827

The portrait of Louis-Auguste Schwiter 1826-1827 EUGENE DELACROIX

Delacroix’s painting is a message addressed to the observer; he introduces us to his friend, and seems to tell us how under the light of his choice he seems funny and charming. After all, when we happen to introduce a friend to other people, we wish to convey the basis our appreciation: if you see my friend as I see him, you will like him too. One of the tragedies of life is that often we are not able to perform this act of communication.

Alessio Nesi

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CLOSE YOUR EYES


Unfortunately no historical era ends for good. Its ideals and pleasures are hidden and can always come back at any moment. And at every come- back we delude ourselves that there can always be a renaissance. There is a profound analogy of culture: between history and the individual. Gods of the past continue to exist. So, for each of us, the encounter with objects that speak of past loves, of past aesthetic ideals, may give birth to a private renaissance. It happens even with makeup. New make-up narrates of distant times and hidden identities, at night, with a palette of rich and intense colors. They create a role play and ironic provocations between past and present.



Dolce&Gabbana

Lipstick Passion Duo Infatuation DOLCE & GABBANA

The collection of lipsticks Passion Duo by Dolce & Gabbana, is a sexy interpretation of the lips of a diva of the fifties, lit by warm red textures. Pure color illuminated by a touch of gloss. Lively and versatile nuances with intense shades of red create a unique palette of a kind. Lipsticks have the liberating power to emphasize the femininity of every woman. Like cigarettes, they mark their days in a ritual with no time when only color brings back past and present ages. Two things do not know limits, femininity and the ways to abuse it. Close our eyes and let ourselves to be seduced by the irresistible charm of a smile. Rare commodity in these times of crisis.

Alessio Nesi

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SCENTS’ CHARM

Text and Artwork ALESSIO NESI

In December, especially when Christmas comes, Italians buy a lot of fragrances, gifts par excellence. Expensive and rich of added value. 50 per cent of perfumes sold in one year is purchased in this period, a race to less known frangrances, to classic ones and new ones. There are more than 300 new launches, some scents are also a one-shot, limited editions, that is to be destined to be brought out of production.

beauty-collage

From left: Eau de Parfum Candy PRADA. Eau de Parfum Violet Blonde TOM FORD. Eau de Parfum The One DOLCE & GABBANA. Eau de Parfum J’adore DIOR.

Coco Chanel used to ofetn say “a woman who does not wear perfume has no future“, sentence which today also applies to males; certainly an essence does not only representsthe personality of who wears it but is also a reminder for others. The scent as an instrument of self-assertion. A self, strong or weak, simple or sophisticated, but still pliable and humoral, there to tell the charm of contradictions.

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FAIRY TALES

Disco Hedgehog, Little Dragon Butterfly, Princess Giselle, are some of the surreal and enchanted characters of the fairy tales book written and illustrated by Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf. Fairy Tales, published by Hardie Grant, contains twelve original stories and illustrates a magical and surreal body of work. Below a short extract from the story Flowerbomb, dedicated to the first women’s fragrance created by the Dutch duo. Enjoy!

Cover

FLOWERBOMB

War had come to the land. Before the war, the land had been enchantingly beautiful. Back then, there were green hills wherever you looked and meadows of flowers in every colour of the rainbow, as far as the eye could see. And the ocean was a magnificent shade of deep blue. No one could remember exactly how it had started, but the war had been going on for a long time. The land was grey and filthy now and the sea was black. The hills were swathed in smoke from the bombs and most of the trees and flowers had withered and died. It was a sorry sight. All the bombs that were needed for the war were made in Mr Cash’s big factory, on the orders of President Black. Mr cash didn’t think about the people in the land or about beautiful things. All he thought about was money. The bombs he made were big, round balls filled with gunpowder and with fuse sticking out of them. Every day, Mr Cash walked proudly around his factory, checking his bombs. ‘Ha ha’, he laughed out loud. “You little beauties are making me rich!”.

Flowerbombx

All the bombs knew was that  they’d been created to destroy the land. “Oh”, they sighed to one another, “this is such a palaver. Quickly, just light my fuse and then at least it’ll all be over and done with”. And that’s how it went, year after year. Until one day, when Mr Cash was ill in bed with the flu. That day, something remarkable happened. For a long time, one of the factory workers, whose name was Frank, had been dreaming up a little plan to do something about that nasty war. And now that Mr Cash was ill and there was on one to check the bombs, he could finally carry out his plan. Like most people, Frank had had more than enough of the war. He wanted to be able to enjoy all of the beautiful things in the land again. What if he came up with something to remind people how beautiful it had all been before? Wouldn’t it make them want to try their hardest to stop this pointless war? For weeks, Frank had been picking every stray flower he’d found among the rubble. He had saved a great big pile of them and that day he secretly filled one of the bombs with his flowers instead of gunpowder. He gave the bomb a little stroke and whispered, “Hello there, Flowerbomb, all of my hopes and wishes are with you. Please, please, choose the perfect moment to let your beauty come bursting out!”. The Flowerbomb knew it had a special mission, even though it didn’t understand exactly what Frank meant.

Let’s fast-forward a little here, because it would take too long to explain how the Flowerbomb was packed up and trasnsported to the presidential palace. And it’s not really very important. President Black, on the other hand, was very important indeed – or at least that’s what he thought. Of Course, presidents are important, but unfortunately they’re sometimes very stupid too. And President Black was one of the very stupid ones. In fact, he was very, very stupid. He refused to do anything at all that might help put a stop to the war. That’s because he was scared that people would no longer need him when the war was over. “I’m going to go and set off a couple of bombs”, the presidentsaid to his ministers. “That’ll keep people busy for a little while”. A clever minister, Minister Bright, said, “Anyone would think you enjoy setting off bombs”. “Of course not, Ms Bright”, the president exploded. “And where did you learn to be so impudent?”. Minister Bright sensibly bit her tongue.

President Black took his cigar from his mouth and lit the fuse of the first bomb whitin reach. “Ha ha”, he laughed as he threw the bomb into the garden where the ministers were sitting. They were all shocked out of their wits and ran away screaming. The bomb exploded, turning the garden black. ” that really is the limit!” Minister Bright sobbed. “I’m so tired of all these bombs and the war too! I want to see beautiful things again!”. ”What? Whaaat?!” screamed the president. “That’s enough! I’ve had it with you!” He took the cigar from his mouth again and picked up another bomb. “Yeah, go ahead and light my fuse, you stupid president”, thought the Flowerbomb. “I’ll make sure Frank’s proud of me”. He was bursting to show everyone what he was made of! The Flowerbomb exploded, but there was no bang. There was no sound at all. A big, bright rainbow appeared in the sky. What a beautiful display! Then the rainbow burst apart and thousands of flowers came swirling and twirling down to the ground. What a wonderfull smell! The speechless ministers stood watching – and they weren’t the onle ones. Everyone, all around, was looking up into the sky in amazement.

(…)

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FLEXIBLE FORMULAS

Photography ALBERTO PELLEGRINET Realization ALESSIO NESI

Cleanse, exfoliate, purify and enlighten. Moments marked by the beneficial ritual of cleansers and moisturizers. Pleasant and relaxing rituals for an accurate daily maintenance. Scrub, detergents, oils, cleansers, toning lotions, all for renewing of our skin, at home. Flexible formulas for bisexual cosmetics, with a practical and minimal look. They give a natural radiant look to our skin. Expression of a free and open identity.

soap1

From left: Facial Soap – Mild with dish CLINQUE. Wild Fig & Cassis Bath Soap JO MALONE.

soap2

From left: Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion CLINQUE. Huile Éclat LANCÔME. The Tonic LA MER.

soap3

From left: Everyday make-up Remover COMFORT ZONE. Flash Smooting Scrub LANCASTER. Melaperfect DARPHIN. Skin Whitening Fluid ANNEMARIE BORLIND. Lotion Fondante Sensuel KENZO.

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ANACHRONISMS

Fashion does not tell anything new. Since a long time it appears more as a reflection rather than the driving force of a society. Style comes from the repêchage of inspirations coming  from shapes and styles of the past. For many designers beauty is an intelligent work of eclecticism. The last exercises in style skillfully blend ancient regime and decorative schemes, for glittering, baroque, neoclassical fantasies, with golden shades and pop colors.

Versace

Eau de Toilette Yellow Diamond by VERSACE

From fragrances to fashion to music, everyday objects take the form of antique furnishings. A classic example is the packaging of Versace’s new fragrance, Yellow Diamond which box is decorated with a shiny gold and yellow baroque style print , typical of the code of the brand;  the cover of the last album by Kanye West & Jay-Z, signed Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci, neo-classical and futuristic, is another example, halfway between a napoleonic ceiling and Star-Wars.

Givenchy

Cover of the last album by Kanye West & Jay-Z, signed GIVENCHY by RICCARDO TISCI

Whether we like it or not, now it’s all déjà-vu, even in fashion, with examples such as the Spring-Summer 2012 D&G men’s collection. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, take to their catwalk a rôdeur à la page, eccentric and maximalist, whose garments, made with baroque prints, are a riot of color and glitz. Beautiful but not at all innovative, with a hint of vintage. Inspired by pop art instead are glasses of Minimal Baroque’s collection of Prada Eyewear, only in limited edition. A tribute to the 90’s.

D&G

Spring-Summer 2012 D&G men’s collection

A reflection of flaunted optimism and futuristic verve? Spectacular and certainly artificial, but the desire to seek “the new” in all this bric-à-brac, is depaupareted by the discomfort to see again old trends, stored a long time ago. “Modest followers of Winckelmann” as Baudelaire wrote, then prevailing: “we are full, the nation it overflows, lazy people love it, we are falling into psychopathology“. Literature, that fortunately never goes out of fashion, gives us a chance to infer at a distance of centuries, as the world does not change much and forecasts a little unfortunate event: imagination, queen of all powers, is on the loose.

Prada

Minimal-Baroque Eyewear Collection by PRADA

Alessio Nesi

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