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THINKING THROUGH IMAGES

20 May, 2013

The great renovation of Italian photography started in the eighties with photographer Luigi Ghirri from the italian region of Emilia Romagna, him before others knew how to create a dialogue between photography, art, architecture, literature and  cinema. Painter of “thinking”, Luigi Ghirri has created something fascinating and not easy: the ability to use photography as intellectual tool  but also emotional to get in touch with the complexity of the outside world trying to tell the very many stories that are woven into it, in a thin continuous search path that ends to coincide with existence itself.

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Paris 1972 LUIGI GHIRRI

His work has had a special engraving on international visual culture. Until October 27, MAXXI, the National Museum of XXI Century Arts in Rome, dedicates to the work of Luigi Ghirri a retrospective exhibition, extensive and organic, entitled Thinking in Pictures, a collaboration between the Museum and the Municipality of Reggio Emilia, the city where the photographer has lived and to which he left his archive of well over 250 thousand clicks.

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Capri 1981 LUIGI GHIRRI

With the exposure of 300 shots, all vintage prints, the viewer is invited to retrace the steps of photographer’s aesthetic , divided into three thematic sections: Icons, Landscapes, Buildings. Icons relate to the beginning and portray the everyday; landscapes describe places of affection and affirmation; architectures immersed in landscapes, form a whole with the atmosphere that surrounds them, from those anonymous to those of author Aldo Rossi, Carlo Scarpa and Paolo Portoghese.

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Venice 1987 LUIGI GHIRRI

On display also published books,  magazines,  reviews that testify  his work as a publisher, critic and curator; a selection of photographs documenting encounters and collaborations with conceptual modenese artists in the early ’70s; record covers witnessing the interest of Ghirri for music, his relationship with musicians such as CCCP and Lucio Dalla.

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Versailles 1985 LUIGI GHIRRI

Behind every shot lies a long meditation in which  both personal expression and honesty with which the artist stands in front of his privacy emerge. Photographer experiences all situations that may amplify visual ambiguity through mirrors, glass, shadows and reflections; he assignes himself the task of digging up these common settings, that forgotten identity,  through a use of color that will be more refined over the years and that has found more and more followers in contemporary filmmakers and photographers.

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Bologna 1987 LUIGI GHIRRI

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RARE EDITIONS

20 May, 2013

In partnership with Elle.it

The best of Italian and French artistic perfumery. The encounter with natural and esoteric elements. Perfection of  olfactory harmonies rounded, woody, floral, oriental. Ethereal, baroque or conceptual. Soft and discreet. Collision between quality raw materials to translate into notes and chords also spirit and style of current and historical characters that affect aesthetics of contemporary society. On sale in the best concept store of the world. It’s new Haute Parfumery.

Profumi-Edizioni Rare-Proprietexclusive

From left: Eau de Toilette N° XIV Ambre di MAD et LEN. Perfumery brand based in Grasse, in the south of France. It creates handmade natural flavors with craftsmanship savoir-faire. Eau de Parfum ID di MENDITTOROSA. Italian brand of Stefania Squeglia, which creates spiritual fragrances “Smells are vehicles for souls meeting”, explain Squeglia. The brand made its debut at Pitti Fragrances and comes with a trilogy: Alpha and Omega ID. ID is a conceptual fragrance with the ambition to be the smell of a black lava stone heated by the sun. DRIES VAN NOTEN Par FREDERIC MALLE. The famous French perfumer, translates the sartorial style of the “tailor explorer”. The genius nose of Frederic Malle has imagined the creation where the style of Dries Van Noten could be reflected, while the hand of Bruno Jovanovic (nose of IFF) has composed the jus formula, played through an olfactory pyramid built with Guaiac Wood, Cashmeran, Saffron, Jasmine, Tonka bean, Vanilla, Musk and Sandalwood of Mysore coming from forests regulated by environmentally sustainable programs. Last but not least, Absolu Eau de Parfum ÉDITION RARE VICI by HISTOIRES de PARFUMES. The Maître Parfumeur, Gérald Ghislain who, since 1999 creates rare and delicate fragrances, gives us the chance to live again the force Julius Caesar’s words, divided into three particular fragrances. After being crowned for a triumphant military conquest, Caesar, delivered, in front of the Roman Senate, the famous phrase “Veni, Vidi, Vici”. Eau de parfum Vici, in particular, embodies fire, which translates into passion and power. He wants to be an invitation to encourage men to have both wisdom and awareness, extremely rare commodity these days.

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BEAUTY-ALGEBRA

6 May, 2013

Photography SIMONE PARRI Realization ALESSIO NESI

Consumers of cosmetics are becoming more and more alert and aware. They are able to build their own beauty-routine according to their personal and seasonal needs. they are so well informed that they can chose between different active ingredients that work alone or together. For this reason functional products are experiencing a new era of popularity; simple and basic, consisting of individual substances to be used alone or in combination for an enhanced action both in the morning and in the evening. Molecules and numbers outline pure active’s aspects with intelligent formulas and innovative variations for regenerating, moisturizing and lifting treatments. they ensure a quick and accurate action.

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1010 Serum Mille, serum extraordinary 24 carat pure gold encapsulated with effective anti-aging peptides; it is an activator of cells MARIA GALLAND PARIS. Triple-Action Micropolish & Peel with 10% glycolic acid ALGENIST. Re-Plasty intense wrinkle corrector & elasticity restorer,  filling concentrate, released by its applicator for maximum precision,  which frees anti-aging molecule LR 2412 by HELENA RUBINSTEIN. Vinosource crème SOS yeux sensibles, soothes and moisturizes for a fresh, bright look, by CAUDALIE.

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SPRING BREEZE

6 May, 2013

In partnership with Elle.it

Some contemporary essences, master techniques of a knowledge. They are home to perfume composer’s archetype. Eau de parfum Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel created by Jacques Polge will be in perfumery fromMay with a special pack of 200 ml. His arrangements are revealed as an harmonic series, guided by a poetic project which reconstructs a scenario: the flowery meadow. Abstract fragrance, evocative and fleeting like butterfly, its spreads atmosphere and evokes feeling. The bottle not only holds an olfactory harmony, but a gust of wind, warm and light. Ten seconds are more than enough to feel projected in a cool and idyllic rural landscapes, in the red light of spring evening at dusk.

Coco-Mademoiselle-Propritexclusive

Eau de Parfum Coco Mademoiselle by CHANEL

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SOFTSHOCK COLORS

2 May, 2013

Photography SIMONE PARRI Realization ALESSIO NESI

Sophisticated not improvised. Spring make-up draws inspiration from the underground society. Graphic with rich, saturated colors expresses a  free and independent soul and it does not indulge in easy traditionalisms. A softpunk mood with strong tones, sweet as a box of macarons from Ladurée. Mixing natural and electrical tones with a predominance of pink in a growing scale from fuchsia to purple. The theme of the season prefers supersleek effects.

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From left: Rouge Allure Velvet 43 La Favorite CHANEL. Shine Lipstick 180 Perla DOLCE & GABBANA. Volupté Sheer Candy 9 Goyave Sorbet YVES SAINT LAURENT.

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Fron left: Nail Lacquer 34 Jade Impérial YVES SAINT LAURENT. Nail Colour 571 Fracas CHANEL. Nail Lacquer 35 Bronze Pyrite YVES SAINT LAURENT.

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NUTRICOSMETICS

29 April, 2013

Photography SIMONE PARRI Realization ALESSIO NESI

With the arrival of spring, pills and beauty drinks inaugurate the season of fitness. Supplements in capsules and drainage liquids, designed to carry out an activity against free radicals, work within the body to bring their results on the outside. They contain antioxidants created with bio-extracts taken from food and thanks to cosmeceutical techniques , are “packed” into tablets with the technique of microencapsulation. To find out the best product, meaning the right  one for your body, considering the vast offer, it is best to consult a dermatologist before you start taking it.

Nutriceutici-Proprietexclusive

From left: Resveratrol Stilvid Panted by REVIDOX . Tisanes Bio Drainantes CAUDALIE. Phytophanere Hair and Nails by PHYTO. Supplements OENOBIOL.

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THE AESOP CASE: WHEN COSMETIC MEETS DESIGN

19 April, 2013

In collaboration with Elle.it

Ecofriendly Aesop cosmetic line, follows the motto “less is more”: each product means is like an object of design, which expresses innovation, in a constant dialogue between raw materials of biological origin, scientific expertise, high-tech design.

In cosmetic “excellence” exists in some skin-care and hair care  lines. Brilliant brands which have gained international success over the years with very strong ethical values such as transparency, consistency and concreteness that condense each other into a single word, “nature”. From the eighties to today some of them have charted a solid future based on the research of ecofriendly technologies, giving more and more importance to the environment, to sources and renewable raw materials, to the maintenance of biodiversity.

DennisPaphitis_JamesBraundPDennis Paphitis photography by James Braund

A good example of international success for over five decades is indeed the one of Aesop, Australian cosmetic brand for body care, founded in Melbourne in 1987 by Dennis Paphitis, entrepreneur of greek- cypriot origins , coming from a family involved in the cosmetic industry. Its success is the dualism form = function, the modus operandi follows the slogan of famous German designer Mies van der Rohe, “less is more“: with reduction and synthesis each cosmetic product is like a design object called upon to resolve aesthetic issues with effective formulas, practical to use, in a constant dialogue between raw materials of biological origin, scientific expertise, high-tech design. All strictly of natural origin, including packaging.

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“We are committed to use only the highest quality plant extracts and we also add non-botanical elements such as anti-oxidants. Only after careful scientific research we agree on safety and efficacy“. Explain the spokesperson from the headquarters in Melbourne. Currently, out of a range that has more than 80 products, we can enumerate 621 ingredients of plant origin man-made and 321 synthetic compounds scientifically approved. It is an eco-oriented  line in the respect of the environment: Aesop cleaning products use surfactants that meet biodegradability criterias of the EU Detergents Directive and are compatible with septic systems refusal and are deprived of any phosphates suitable for use in water recycling systems. Another important aspect is that their products are not tested on animals.

6-AESOP-STORE-FR-TIQUETONNEAESOP Store France Tiquetonne

The one of Aesop is a form of modernism perfectly conscious. The line is aimed to aware customers, demanding, super informed and always looking for innovative products, environmentally friendly; a radical-chic target, grown in the shade of new-age environments, that nurtures a certain mistrust towards the traditional beauty industry considered too extreme. Credibility and integrity of this brand is also linked to the authenticity and simplicity of its functional bottles design : as pharmaceutical products, there is a list of all substances, usually printed on the back of the package, on a label on the front of the bottle, highlighting aspects of clarity and transparency.

AESOP-ILLUSTRATION

AESOP Skin Parsley Hydrator

The popular Aesop range with “Parsley Seeds”  must have line of the brand, from this month include a new product: Parsely Seed Anti-Oxidant Hydrator. The formula is made from an extract of parsley seeds, white tea, ephilobio and Provitamin B5 and seven essential oils, it is an essential cure for those who live in the city and fights the effects of pollution, its light texture is easily absorbed even for those who live in hot and humid climates. “Thanks to this formula, we have achieved a remarkable level of hydration, with a strong anti-oxidant effect” explains Kate Forbes, Director of Research and Development. Aesop is not just a cosmetic brand but a philosophy of healthy living in a constant balance with nature; its 65 stores in the world testify the belief according to which the architecture, smart design, respect for nature, have the power to radically transform human experience.

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VOYAGE À REBOURS

8 April, 2013

In collaboration with Elle.it

Curiously browsing through the pages of “La Repubblica”, an old number found by chance under a pile of books in my library, I was surprised to read an essay by Paul Ricoeur. The complex relationship of identity with time. According to the french philosopher, it requires the constant use of memory both collective and biographical. Reflecting on the contribution that I could given to the review of Floral Water Valentina by Valentino, it seemed to me that the question posed by Ricoeur, constituted a possible interpretation. Temporal distance is a vantage point of observation that allows us to contemplate from a distance moments gone forever and the melancholic feeling of nostalgia that surprises us whenever we hear a particular scent is reflected in the glossy reflection of deatchment.

Acqua-Floreale-Valentino

Eau de Toilette Floral Water Valentina by VALENTINO

The maitre parfumier Oliver Cresp, creator of Eau de Toilette by Valentino, proposes a journey back to a glorious past with a mix of images and visual stimuli, a vitaminic “Valentino juice”. Cresp translates into a reassuring hug, a distillate of emotional overtones, coming from ancient memories of frescoed rooms of historical Roman palaces and their luxurios secret gardens. The geographical and anthropological location, intimate and hidden, around the house of the couturier, becomes the search for “new”, which aims to reconstruct a geographical copyright, with sights and smells linked to the brand, to make it persistent over time; here beauty doesnt go through with what you show, but  with what is subtracted from our view and returned under the form of a fragrance.  Temporal distance together with lived place imply the ability and willingness to be moved and touched by the memory that assembles with the odors, modern myths of recognition. Smells are like this, there to control emotional life until  they make us slaves.

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FREAK CHARM

8 April, 2013

What is beautiful? What is bad-looking? The good and the ungly are relative in different times and cultures, even though over the centuries it has been tried several times to define templates to define what was beautiful and what was not. The concept of ugliness is more and more immediate today. Cruelty and the macabre that characterize contemporary society, from movies to video games, sublimate the concept of monstrous that no longer coincides with being bad. Contemporary art celebrates the ugly also in a provocative sense, stimulating disgust and fear, but also arousing charm, mystery and erotism, as it emerges  from the photographic work  of Joel-Peter Witkin (New York 1939) who arrives to the MNFA of Florence, (until June 24th) thanks to the collaboration between Fratelli Alinari and Baudoin Lebon Gallery, in Paris.

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Still life with breast, 2001 © JOEL-PETER WITKIN, courtesy Baudoin Lebon

A journey of 55 selected works proposes an inventory of enigmatic images that summarize central themes of his work:  love for fetid rotting flesh, religious restlessness, nudity, links with eros, suffering, pleasure , but also deterioration and death. Debunking works arouse a sense of inadequacy and dark ominous. They open a hole in our sweetened visions of order and beauty. Witkin’s compositions narrate photographic reinterpretations of art history with the reconstruction of painful natures, laid with care and with a taste oriented to monstrous charm. They create a world in the middle, to the edge of surreal, where figures cut out spaces of afterlife, within which to pose. His mortuary love turns this way into inconcievable ability to represent death and its decay.

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Prudence 1996 © JOEL-PETER WITKIN, courtesy Baudoin Lebon

His works are full of formal citations among which we can recognize the great names in history of photography, such as Muybridge, Rejlander and Holland Day, intertwined with Greek and Roman sculpture and with baroque, neoclassical and modern art. Portrayed scenes are full of references, more or less explicit, to the great masters of art, from Bosch to Velasquez, from Goya to Manet. Witkin faces their own same problems using unusual models, with a freak charm, androgynous, dwarves, cripples, hermaphrodites. He himself says that before shooting, he draws the idea that  hewants to accomplish. He makes sure that the metaphysical creative act takes shape even before it is put into practice. The model-dead body seen as an outrageous object, becomes something else compared to the proportions of the body usually seen in art.

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Coubet in rejlander’s Pool, New Mexico, 1985 © JOEL-PETER WITKIN, courtesy Baudoin Lebon

Over the centuries,  art has come back with insistence to represent the aesthetics of ugly, accepting pain of death to sing its own experiments of death-in-life and tell the whole transience of life, awareness of pain, tragedy but also the post-modern anxiety of new, gruesome icons. Witkin’s works have been exhibited in major museums and international art centers;  in 1999 he was named Chevalier de l’Ordre des Art set des Lettres and in 2000 Commandeur of the same honorary French order.

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Self Portrait, reminiscent as a Self Portrait as a Vanité, 1995 © JOEL-PETER WITKIN courtesy Baudoin Lebon

How did your interest in photography start? I ws born in 1939. During WWII, my father would show me pictures in newspapers of the devastation. As a child, I believed the entire world (except where we lived in Brooklyn) was being destroyed. I was fascinated by all those pictures. i wanted to make photographs in order to make sense of the world in the time I had to live in this life. Looking at your photographs you can not notice the theme of nakedness linked to suffering and pleasure. By whom and what are you inspired? The themes of Splendour and Misery for me are Alfa and the Omega of life-the extremes of goodness and evil. My models are usually naked because in that way, they are timeless. The history of the Catholic faith has always been my vision of life. Your works, by formal approach, look more like paintings than photographs. How did you develop this type of printing technique? Most photographs are worthless beacuse they have no basis in fact ou purpose. My photographs reflect the history of western Civilization and the moral decisions of that history. I developed my singular vision through years of personal and aesthetic development. Dwarfs, cripples, abundant women, hermaphrodites, androgens. It looks like a freak show casting. Where does the decision to focus on models out of the norm come from? My Italian grandmother, who raised me, was a cripple. i loved her for her soul, not what she looked like. My first photographs were made at a “Freak Show” (I detest that term because it is demoralizing and mean) in Coney Isalnd when I was sixteen years old. To me, these people were “beyond normal”. They showed the genius of God and our need to love.lineaa

SHARED EMOTIONS

27 March, 2013

In collaboration with Elle.it

The particular Jour d’Hermès, created by master perfumer of French fashion house Jean-Claude Ellena, is a unique scent based on citrus hints. A light and vibrant water, enclosed in a bottle with a minimalist and elegant structure, designed for the occasion by the shoe and jewellery designer Pierre Hardy, it is already a collector’s item. The simple olfactory structure is a fruitful creator of images. With emotional reverb, wide and deep, it projects spirit in the infinity like a ray of sunshine goes through feelings of emptiness and absence, it expands boundaries between human finitude and infinity of nature. Emotions evoked by the attractiveness of this liquid have a calming effect, capable to bring calm to our darkest thoughts.

Jour-d'Hermes

Eau de Parfum Jour d’Hermès

In the library of Hermès’ perfumes, each fragrance has a story, every scent opens an imagination that each of us can make our own expression of identity and then share it with others.

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